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A steep, winding driveway leads you to Pumulani's main lodge, which is completely open fronted and has fabulous views out over the lake. There is an open decking area, for breakfast and dinner with a view, as well as a small bar and dining room.

From here a winding wooden pathway leads through the rocks to a tiny lagoon area, where pied kingfishers swoop in and out of the water each morning. Nearby, there's a fire spot among the rocks, where a campfire is lit each evening, and guests gather for sundowners (if they're not out watching the dusk fall on the lodge's traditional dhow).

Steps lead down from the main lodge to the swimming pool, and further down still is the beach, where there is a small bar and lunch is often eaten under a giant mango tree. There are quite a few steps here. These are absolutely fine for anyone who can walk up a reasonable sized hill, but if you find this tricky, do let the lodge staff know as they can run you down in the small golf cart belonging to the lodge.

The rooms themselves are vast. All ten of them have been individually designed in a chic, modern, South African style. As each room is built among the rocks and trees, they are all slightly different, but each one has a large bedroom, bathroom and sitting room, with two verandas to enjoy the views. The bedrooms all come with sweeping mosquito nets and overhead fans. The bathrooms have double monsoon showers, as well as roll-top baths, and the sitting rooms have comfortable wooden furniture and a small collection of books on Malawi and the fascinating flora and fauna of the lake.

OUR RATING: First Class