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About an hour and a half from Tanjore and set on the banks of the mighty Cauvery River is the bustling town of Trichy.

Rock Fort Temple

At its heart is the Rock Fort Temple, accessed through the Chinese Market. For spectacular views, leave your shoes just inside the door and climb up the 437 steps cut into the stone. Much of the climb tunnels through the rock and you’ll share the steps with dozens of pilgrims also trying to reach the top. Halfway up is a stable where cows given in thanks for a child’s birth are kept. These are auctioned every few months.

Srirangam

A short drive away from the Rock Fort Temple is the temple complex of Srirangam. Covering an enormous area it has an unusual design with seven concentric walls. The outer walls include homes and bazaars, and the entire temple complex has the feel of a town, enlivened by temple elephants wandering around to receive offerings. The towers were recently painted to highlight the numerous carvings.

The Cauvery River nearby is visited by pilgrims, who often shave their heads as part of their spiritual journey: their scalps are protected from the sun by a turmeric paste, giving their heads an exotic yellow glare.